Why Does My Cat Pee Everywhere?

Whether your cat is old or young, male or female, anxious or mellow, he or she can get the idea that peeing anywhere but the litterbox is a good thing. Many frustrated humans in the past and present have tried nearly everything to figure out why the cat does this - and, of course, to solve the problem.

Here are the first things that you should do when your cat insists on stinking up your house. You'll have to be patient while you work your way through this list, but soon your kitty will be back to doing his or her business in an appropriate place.

• Your cat needs a full health checkup. In many cases, cats pee right in front of you when they're sick. A urinary tract infection (UTI) is one of the most common health problems, which your vet can treat. Even if that's not what's wrong with your kitty, your vet can track down, and solve, the problem.
• Cats who are older or who have health problems (joint pains, for example), can't get in and out of the litterbox like they could when they were younger. Make the litterbox more accessible so that your kitty can get in and out.
• The litterbox itself might be a problem. If you have more than one cat, you might need to put out additional litterboxes. The type of litter and how much of it you use can be problems. You should also change the cat litter and thoroughly scrub the litterbox. The plastic tends to absorb urine smells, which can turn off housecats.
• Sometimes cats will act out by peeing all over your favorite things. This can be a sign that they're unhappy about something. Try giving your cat more (positive) attention. Extra playtime with his favorite toy can cure the behavioral issue. You can also ask your vet about a product that will help soothe your kitty: Feliway is one example.
• Tomcats often spray anything that they wish to mark as their own territory. Sterilization can improve this problem.
• Elderly kitties can suffer from feline dementia. They honestly don't realize that they're doing something wrong when they pee all over your clean laundry. Buy housebreaking pads - the disposable kind that people use with puppies - and put them down where your kitty pees the most often. This won't convince her to use the litterbox, but cleanup will be much easier compared to what you're doing now.

You should do a few things when your kitty decides to mark something in your house.

• Never hit the cat or rub her nose in the mess. Cats aren't like human children: they don't understand that what they do is wrong. You can deter behavior as the cat is doing it, but trying to teach the cat after the fact doesn't work very well. Instead of scolding kitty afterward, catch her in the act and spritz her with tap water from a spray bottle.
• Completely clean the marked territory. Even if you can't smell the cat pee, the cat will. That's her sign to continue peeing there. Visit the pet store for a product that removes all of the pet odors.
• Give your cat plenty of positive attention. Despite the stereotypes that surround felines, cats do bond with their humans. They want our attention and will go to great lengths to get it from us.

Don't worry: you'll track down and solve the problem soon enough. In the meantime, be as patient as possible. Your solution will come and you can resume the carefree relationship

Copyright © 2008, Ian White housesitting.com

Author Ian White is founder of housecarers Housesitting directory

Cats are happier in their own environment. Pet friendly alternative to catteries or cat boarding.

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How to Train Cats to Use a Cat Door Or Ring a Bell to Be Let Inside

If you have an outdoor cat you may hope to learn how to train cats to use a cat door or how to ring a bell so that you realize they are ready to come in.

I realize that there are times when I let my cats outside that I may get busy and forget to check on them so I found a way for them to let me know that they are at the door all set to come inside. I live in an area that is too cold for a cat door (I have one going to the basement where the cat litter boxed are located) so I chose to find a way for them to signal me to open the door, something we wanted because of the extreme cold we at times go through here.

Here is a very simple way for training your cats to let you know when they want to be let inside.

Simply take a small bell, one that is loud enough for you to hear, and swing it from a string right outside the door. Make certain to show this to your cat numerous times and if you need to you can even add some catnip to the bell to appeal to your cats.

You can obtain a bell at any craft store for practically nothing. Using several small bells might even do better for you or your cat. Tie the bell or bells to a cord that hangs down low enough for your cat to reach easily and then also attach a catnip toy or use catnip spray to attract your cat.

When ever the cat rings the bell to come in, you will want to give them a cat treat to let them know that they have done something worth rewarding. If your cat doesn't take to the bell straight away, you may have to keep showing it to them to get them interested and sooner or later they will learn that you will come to the door to let them in when they ring the bell.

In the beginning, you might need to keep showing them the bell every time they go out or come in so that they begin to connect the bell with the door being opened for them. You might even want to begin with a bell inside the house for when they want to go outside and this will help them to learn more quickly that ringing the bell means that the door will be opened.

While I realize there will be times that you may not open the door just because you are not there or for any number of reasons, your cat will still start to connect the bell with the door being opened.

If you live someplace where you can put in a cat door, this is one more choice you can use to let your cat go in and out when ever they want to. This will also depend on what other animals you may have in the home. One more reason I choose not to have a cat door that leads outside, is I have a cat that can go outside but she is edgy and I have be there to baby sit when she goes out so that she doesn't get scared and take off.

Although you can purchase a cat door at any pet store, you can also just make one yourself if you are good at creating stuff. We put the cat door to our basement in ourselves, simply by cutting a small hole at the bottom of the door and putting a piece of plastic across it that they could easily walk through.

If you wish to put in a cat door that goes outside, make sure you know what size you need to have for you cat to be able to fit comfortably through the opening. While a cat that is used to going outside all the time will most likely figure out quickly how to make use of the cat door, you may also need to know how to train cats to use this new door as well.

This ought to be a fairly straightforward process. One of the ways you can train your cat to use this door is to keep it open and use a toy to tempt your cat to go through from one side to the other. It should only take a couple of times of doing this before your cat is aware that they can go in and out as they please.

Once they have gone in and out a couple of times you will want to show them how to use the door by themselves when it is closed and you can use the same process to do this. You may perhaps choose to use food to attract your cat to walk through the door and help them to push through the first few times but a lot of cats will take to this process pretty quickly if they really want to be able to get outside.

With persistence and affection you can learn how to train cats to do just about everything.

Understanding your cat is one of the first steps in learning how to train cats [http://howtotraincats.net]. If you plan on getting a cat or a kitten it is best to know how to train a kitten [http://howtotraincats.net] from the very start

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Cat Labor Signs - 7 Ways To Tell That Your Cat is About to Give Birth

So your cat has been pregnant for awhile now and been getting rounder and rounder. Suddenly, her whole demeanour changes and you're standing there, wondering if this is really it -- is your cat in labour?

Are her kittens coming?

How can you tell?

Just what are the signs of labour you should be looking out for?

Cat lovers the world over do their very best to make sure that their beloved pets receive the best care possible.

But when our feline friends become ill -- or in this case, are due to give birth to kittens -- we begin to feel very anxious and out of control as we realise that we simply don't know enough about the situation.

After all, we can't all be vets! You need to know what to look out for and you need to know fast.

Your cat is due to go into labour around the 64th day of her pregnancy, although it is very unlikely that you will be able to be that accurate in your calculations. Instead, you will have to rely on your ability to read the signs of the stages of pregnancy and of her impending labour.

Firstly, you are likely to have noticed that your cat's appetite will have almost doubled in the past few weeks and you will be able to see her kittens moving around in her abdomen quite clearly.

Also, she will have been displaying nesting behaviour -- looking for a safe, warm and quiet place in which to give birth. Hopefully, you will have already provided a suitable nesting box for her to use, otherwise you may find that she has chosen to give birth in the middle of your bed!

Then, as your cat nears the start of her labour, her appetite will reduce dramatically. It may even disappear completely.

A further sign of your cat's labour is that she may become particularly clingy and want to be around you constantly, seeking your affection.

As she gets closer to the time that her labour begins in earnest, you may find that your cat starts pacing about, appearing nervous or particularly excitable.

Another very distinct sign that your cat is very close to going into labour is that she will begin to 'call' to you. Even if you have never been present when a cat is giving birth, you won't be able to mistake this particular sound!

As the time approaches, you will see your cat repeatedly licking her bottom as she reacts to changing sensations in her body as it prepares for the birth of her kittens.

And finally, when your soon--to--be mother cat starts to feel the first twinges of her labour, she will appear to be uneasy and will repeatedly go in and out of her nesting box, 'treading' on the nesting material that you have already provided.

When you see this last behaviour, you can be quite sure that your lovely cat is entering the first stage of the birth process -- your cat's labour has begun.

In conclusion then, when you find yourself faced with a heavily pregnant cat and are wondering just when things will start to get moving, the foregoing, seven signs will give you a good guide to follow.

But do yourself a favour, the hard work doesn't stop there -- for you or your cat. Learn just what you need to know to help her through the actual birth process and how you can best care for your cute, newborn kittens by visiting the link in the box below.

© Jane Tompsett 2007

Author's Biography.

Jane Tompsett is a confirmed cat--lover and has more than forty years' experience in caring for stray and abandoned cats. She has trained to run a cat boarding establishment and has been associated with the Feline Advisory Bureau for almost twenty years now. Her lifelong interest in feline welfare has given her a broad range of expertise on all aspects of cat care and behavior.

To discover how to give the best home care for your cat through pregnancy, birth, nursing & weaning, including how to care for orphaned and abandoned kittens, visit the link below.

http://www.howtodeliverkittens.com

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Cat Eye Disorders

EYE TUMORS

Seventy-five percent of eye tumors in the cat are malignant, aggressive forms of cancer (in dogs the ratio is reversed, 75 percent of tumors are benign and do not spread or become life-threatening). An Iris melanoma is the most common type of tumor affecting cat's eyes. Older cats may develop a visible brown or black spot on the iris of their eye. The Iris is the colored part of the eye. The spots may be single or multiple and are pigmented cells called Melanocytes that have overgrown. Examination involves the use of a slit-lamp biomicroscope, which determines whether or not the tumor is cancerous. If the pigmented area on the iris is flat, the lesion is referred to as an Ins Melanosis. This is considered to be pre-cancerous and is rechecked at six-month intervals.

IRIS MELANOMA / GLAUCOMA

Iris melanoma is also called Melanosis and/or Melanocytoma. Iris melanoma is the term used if the pigmented area on the iris is raised. This is a cancerous lesion. Treatment involves using a diode laser to destroy the cancer cells. Without treatment, Iris melanoma is generally result in Glaucoma. Glaucoma occurs because the cancer cells spread and obstruct the drainage angle of the eye, which is where the fluid within the eye normally drains. Since fluid can not drain from the eye, it builds up within the eye which increases pressure within the eye and causes Glaucoma. In dogs, Glaucoma rapidly results in blindness due to irreversible damage to the retina.

The only sign of Glaucoma in cats may be a slight difference in the size of the pupils which are the dark central area of the eye. Surgical removal of the eye, which is called Enucleation, is often necessary in advanced cases of Ins Melanoma. This alleviates the pain of Glaucoma and removes the cancerous mass.

RETINAL DEGENERATION

Retinal Degeneration is an inherited condition in Abyssinian cats. It occurs between four to six years of age and results in blindness. A dietary deficiency of the amino acid Taurine can also occur in cats fed primarily dog food which results in Nutritional Retinal Degeneration. This condition was first described in 1975 and was called Feline Central Retinal Degeneration (FCRD). Commercial cat foods are now fortified with Taurine to prevent this problem.

Copyright 2007 Dr. Carol Osborne

Dr. Carol Osborne is the inventor of PAAWS, the pet anti-aging wellness system seen on TV. VitaLife is Dr. Carol's newest line of pet vitamin supplements and is the best supplement available for arthritis and anti-aging in dogs and cats. PAAWS and VitaLife are revolutionary breakthroughs, with all natural nutrients that virtually peel away the years, seeming to reverse the aging process normally experienced by pets.

Get FREE pet advice from Dr. Carol at http://CarolonPets.com/

Visit Dr. Carol's blog at http://CarolonPets.com/blog/

Buy PAAWS and VitaLife dog and cat vitamin supplements and other pet health products at http://DrCarol.com/

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Eight Foods Your Cat Should Never, Ever Eat

Most of us know that there are some human foods our pets shouldn't eat. Keeping our cats away from alcohol, for example, is a no-brainer. But did you know that onion powder can cause anemia in cats and dogs? Because of their different metabolisms, many common foods that are safe for human consumption are not safe for your cat. Reactions can range from upset stomachs to severe illness or death.

To help keep your kitty safe you need to know which foods to avoid. The following list spotlights eight common foods your cat should never eat:

Baby Food

It's hard to imagine that a food that's safe enough for a baby's tender tummy would hurt our fur-kids. But what makes baby food so dangerous for cats is that it might contain onion powder (see below) which could lead to anemia. Also, baby food doesn't meet your cat's nutritional needs, and could result in malnutrition if she eats too much of it.

Chocolate

Most people know that chocolate is bad for dogs, but many of us don't realize that it's harmful for cats as well. Chocolate contains theobromine, a chemical compound that humans can eat safely. But cats and dogs metabolize theobromine more slowly; as a result, even small amounts of the compound can lead to theobromine poisoning, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, excitability, panting, abnormal heart rate, tremors, seizures - and even death. Theobromine poisoning is treatable if caught early enough. But to be safe, keep chocolate away from your kitty.

Coffee and Tea

Caffeine is toxic to both cats and dogs, and there's no antidote. According to ProVet Healthcare, it only takes about 8 teaspoons of coffee to potentially fatally poison a cat that weighs 3 kilograms (that's about 6.6 lbs). Signs of caffeine poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, panting, hyperactivity, restlessness, muscle tremors, increased or decreased heart rate, irregular heart rhythm, increased body temperature. But most scary of all: caffeine poisoning can lead to seizures, coma and death.

Grapes and Raisins

Scientists aren't sure exactly just what substance is in grapes and raisins that make them so toxic for our pets, but according to the ASPCA Poison Control Center, dogs who've eaten large amounts of grapes and raisins have suffered renal (kidney) failure. Although it's unclear what effect grapes have on cats, to be on the safe side the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center "advises not giving grapes or raisins to any pets in any amount."

Onions and Garlic

Raw, powdered and uncooked onions and garlic are especially harmful to cats because they damage red blood cells, which could cause anemia. Not only does anemia make your kitty pale and lethargic, it can be a life threatening illness.

Spinach

The jury's still out on whether or not spinach is bad for cats, but scientists do know that spinach leaves contain a small amount of calcium oxalates (a chemical compound that makes needle-shaped crystals), which is a major component in kidney stones. If your cat eats enough spinach, it could lead to crystals in her urine. Cats with a history of urinary problems such as infections, crystaluria and kidney disease, should definitely avoid eating spinach.

Unripe Tomato

Everyone knows that tomatoes are good for humans. But did you know that they can be toxic to cats? Tomatoes are a member of the deadly nightshade plant family and contain a poisonous alkaloid called, solanine. Solanine is toxic to humans too. But you have to eat it in large amounts for it to hurt you. That's why you shouldn't eat green potatoes - a potato that has gone green has higher levels of solanine inside it. And it can make you sick, causing a bevy of symptoms that range from nausea, diarrhea and vomiting to hallucinations, paralysis and in the worst cases, death. Unlike humans, however, only a small amount of solanine can hurt your cat. According to FelineFuture.com, "traces of Solanin, like those found in just a 100g of cherry tomatoes, can be fatal!"

Yeast Dough

Raw or uncooked yeast dough should never be fed to your cat. What makes it so dangerous? Yeast (the single-celled fungi that causes bread to rise) isn't toxic per se, but if your cat eats the raw dough, it might continue to rise inside your kitty's stomach. And you can imagine what that could lead to: painful bloating, gas, and in the worst-case-scenario, possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Remember, the information in this article is for informative purposes only. If you suspect your cat has eaten something that is harmful, or needs medical attention, contact your veterinarian immediately! For more information about other harmful foods or toxins found in your home, check out these great references: ASPCA Animal Control Archives and PetEducation.com.

K.L. Bonfiglio is a freelance writer and owner of CuteCatGifts.com, a website dedicated to connecting cat lovers with cute cat gifts. Looking for more information about cats? Visit our blog, which features informative cat articles, product spotlights, cat videos, funny cat photos and more.

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Beware! Before You Adopt From A Dog Rescue, You Must Know The Correct Answers For The Application?

If you are considering adopting a dog from an animal shelter or a dog rescue group, that is wonderful! Every dog adopted from a shelter or rescue group helps to eliminate despicable puppy mills and, more importantly, saves a dog's life. Unfortunately, some dog rescue groups make adopting a dog almost as difficult as adopting a child. The first hurdle you must clear is the initial adoption application. An "incorrect" answer here will send you home in shock and empty-handed. For this reason, it is important that you read this application BEFORE you fall in love with a specific dog.

Most rescue groups--especially puppy mill dog rescues and breed-specific rescues--require that you submit an adoption application and have it approved before they will even talk to you or allow you to see their dogs in person. You will be able to look at pictures of available dogs on the rescue website; but until they have approved your application, that is as far as you can go. Fortunately, not all rescues are so terribly demanding; and by comparison, shelters are downright welcoming!

I cannot overstate the importance of this initial application! Please understand that I am an honest person. I do not lie and would never tell anyone to lie on an application. Having said that, there are certain answers that, if stated on an application, will immediately disqualify you. When you read the application, you will need to determine if any of these apply to you. Then you will need to decide how you want to handle the situation. You can try to avoid having to admit the truth, or you will need to look for a less demanding rescue group.

For the questions below, I will give you the "correct" answer, by which I mean the answer the rescue wants to read or hear from you. I will also give you answers that will disqualify you. If there is some other acceptable answer, I will state that as well. For a few questions, I will just say NOTB--None Of Their Business--or I will just tell you to go elsewhere.

Typical "Problematic" Questions:

1. How much money do you make? This is one of those NOTB questions. Supposedly, they want to make sure you can afford to adopt a dog, but I consider the only answer to be given here is "I make enough."

(Just FYI -- some rescues are actually discriminatory; and questions dealing with salary, type of home, where you live, etc. are used to weed out certain people.)

2. How much time during the day will your dog be alone?

Disqualify: All day or I work all day.

Correct: NONE. Someone is always home.

Acceptable: Not much time. I go home at lunch and my neighbor will let the dog out two or three times a day.

3. How much time will your dog have to spend outside alone?

Disqualify: All day.

Correct: None.

There is no other acceptable answer.

4. Is your yard fenced with a 5' (or 6') wooden fence?

Disqualify: No fence; electric fence; 4' chain link fence. (I have not found any rescue that will accept an electric fence.)

Correct: Yes, I have a 5' (or 6') wooden fence.

Acceptable: This will depend on the dog. For an older small dog, a shorter fence might be acceptable.

5. Do you have children? What are the ages?

Disqualify: Baby or children under 6.

Correct: No children, or all are 10 or older.

Acceptable: Ages between 4 and 10 will depend on the dog.

6. What pets have you owned and, if you don't still have them, state why not.

The second part of this question is NOTB! They are trying to find out if you have put any pets down or have returned any.

7. Where will the dog sleep?

Disqualify: Outdoors.

Correct: In the house, with us, in a crate.

8. Is everyone in the family enthusiastic about getting a new dog?

Disqualify: Any answer that isn't YES.

Correct: YES.

9. Have you ever returned or given up a pet? This might be worded: Is there any acceptable reason to return a pet?

Disqualify: Yes.

Correct: Never. I would never do that.

Acceptable: This can be tricky. If an adopted animal and your current pets could not work things out, you might still be approved.

10. Have you had a pet put down?

Disqualify: Yes. Most rescues do not believe there is any acceptable reason to put down a dog. Aggression is never an acceptable reason. Severe injury or illness might be considered acceptable, but that depends on the rescue. Some believe in the "as long as they can breathe" philosophy for keeping an animal alive.

Final thoughts:

Before you get attached to a dog, read both the adoption application AND the adoption contract. If you realize that you will not get approved (small children, live in apartment, yard not fenced, etc.) or you cannot accept some of the contract requirements, then do not bother to look at pictures of their animals. Instead, look for a different rescue or go to your local shelter or Humane Society.

Puppy mill rescue groups and breed rescues tend to have an inherent distrust of human beings. Thus, their requirements are very strict. Rescues that make a concerted effort to save dogs from euthanasia at shelters are more people friendly and understand that their first goal needs to be getting these animals into loving homes.

Be patient and check websites frequently. Visit your local shelter frequently. Your perfect dog will find you!

Shirley Slick, "The Slick Tips Lady," is a retired high school math teacher and a life-long animal lover. In addition to her goals about mathematics education, she is equally concerned about puppy-mills, the dog rescue industry, and designer dogs. For more information about these topics, or tips about donating to rescues, visit her website at http://slicktipsaboutdogrescues.com/

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My Dog Won't Shut Up! How to Stop a Barking Dog

Introduction

Yapping dogs are perhaps the worst nightmare of any person living next door. These are typically toy or small breed dogs that tend to sit at the gate and yap sun-up till sun-down. This article will explain why these dogs are doing this and what you can do if you are the owner of a yapping dog.

Reasons why a Dog Barks Non-stop

Dogs that bark persistently are bored most of the time. There are rare causes like obsessive compulsive disorders (OCD) that cause prolonged barking episodes, most owners want veterinarians to diagnose OCD as the cause for their dog's bad barking behaviour because there is no real treatment. These owners are often in denial and do not want to face the fact that they have a bored dog. Here are some of the reasons a dog will bark continuously: 

• Boredom is the most common cause. This is often built up energy that the dog has due to inactivity or lack of social interaction. They have no other route of expelling this excess energy, so they opt to bark all day long at anything they see.
• Habit of barking that has built up over months, even years. This is the worst of the lot. These dogs just bark anywhere and everywhere. At the gate, along the fence, in the house, some just sit in a quiet spot and bark for the fun of barking.
• Sight problems, dogs that cannot see very well or who have hair growing in front of their eyes are prone to barking. They usually calm down when they recognise the perceived threat.
• Hearing problems are also a concern. Deaf dogs or dogs that are losing their hearing are prone to barking. Dogs that have very acute hearing will also bark, often at sounds that you cannot even hear, such as construction work four or five blocks away.
• Very old dogs are more at risk of beginning canine cognitive dysfunction (dementia). This is where their brains are not working as well as they should due to normal old age changes inside the body. Old dogs on high protein diets are prone to this. Their bark will also often change in frequency and they may even howl or have a droning type bark.
• Aggressive dogs will bark and growl. If they have an aggression problem they will growl, crouch down and bark if the perceived threat does not move away. These dogs are dangerous and it is not advisable to keep them on your property. This world has no place for aggressive dogs.
• Protective barking is when a dog will bark at something they are not sure of. Dogs will bark at insects, snakes, rats, mice and almost anything they find intriguing. They will try to call you closer to have a look at what they have discovered.
• Instinct behaviour is also an important cause of barking. Some dogs still demonstrate normal canine pack behaviour and barking is a form of communication and to display territory. Breeds such as Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes, German Shepherd Dogs and dogs crossed with wolves seem to be more prone to this type of barking.
• Last but not least is an obsessive compulsive disorder causing dogs to bark persistently. These are dogs that seem to be habit barkers but do not respond to the corrective measures. This is very rare and your dog will only be diagnosed with this by exclusion of exploring all other barking related issues as described above. This is a tricky disease to treat at the best of times.

Bored Barkers Versus Habit Barkers

These two reasons make up at least 85% of all dog barking issues. This is very important for you to decide which is true for your dog. The reason being is that the method of stopping this unwanted behaviour is very different. If you have a habit barker, often you need to resort to more advanced correction techniques to get the dog over this type of behaviour. It is best that you be honest with yourself, it is difficult to admit that you have a bored dog at home. Here are some tips to help you decide which type of dog you have:

Habit Barkers: 

• Barks anywhere and everywhere.
• Will sit in one spot and begin to bark.
• Monotone hysterical barking.
• Continuous cyclical yap that can be timed, often one bark every 5 seconds.
• Calling these dogs might stop them for a minute or two then they will continue barking.
• These dogs are on their own most often, and will not socialize often.

Bored Barkers: 

• Often at some stimulating site such as along the fence or at the gate.
• Will often run up-and-down a fence or along the yard boundary.
• If something exciting happens, these dogs change their barking tone.
• Bark frequency depends on how much action there is, so it is highly variable.
• Calling these dogs often helps, as long as you have something more exciting to offer them, or else they will return to their barking.
• Dogs will spur each other on, especially the neighbour's dogs. They will both run up-and-down the yard boundary barking at each other.

Rules of Correction and Reward

In order for you to win the war of unwanted barking you must learn to discipline your dog correctly. If you do not learn the art of appropriate discipline then you will suffer from poor results. Discipline is such a harsh word with many connotations, so you may use the word correction to help make you feel a bit more positive over winning the war. In most cases it is a war, as the dog owner will either be battling with fed up neighbours, fed up family members and a disheartened attitude towards your once loved pet before they became a barking demon. Follow these tips and tricks and you will restore confidence in yourself, your pet and the disgruntled people putting pressure on you to resolve the issue.

You will need to do the following: 

• Always remain calm and collected. A person who is frantic, hysterical and angry will not be able to correct their dog.
• Build trust with your dog, if you do not spend time with them, then this is a great start. Talk to your dog in a soft, warm friendly tone of voice.
• Learn to speak clearly and in varying tones without shouting. This is going to help you immensely when you begin your verbal correction.
• When you correct your dog there is an uneasy period where the dog may not trust you. It is vital to regain this trust after a correction. You must do this, a dog will never listen to a person who they do not trust or who they are afraid of.
• Reward all good behaviour. Such as when they are not barking, show them some caring. Or when you see they want to begin barking, but stop when they see you. Your reward is important as this reinforces good behaviour.
• Reward them with your time, friendly warm tone of voice and a good tickle on the head or belly. Never use food as a reward or distraction.
• Always be on time with your correction and reward after they respond to a correction.
• If you are over correcting your dog will run away with a tail tucked under them. If this is the case do not correct again as roughly as you did. Always regain the trust by inviting your dog over for a belly tickle. This may take time for them to trust you again. You must regain their trust to win.
• Never chase your dog to correct them. This will turn into a game and you will lose.

The plan is first to gain your dog's trust. Get them to come to you when you call them. Once they come to you, reward them by giving them good praise and a belly tickle. This is the most important part before you begin the correction process. This can take as long as a week to do. They must come to you when you call. Often you may need to crouch down and pat your thigh while calling them. Never chase after them and grab them. Once they are close to you, hold out your hand, palms facing them and let them sniff your hands. Never grab them closer if they are nervous in the beginning. They must learn that coming to you is fun and exciting because they get attention and a belly tickle. Once they willingly come over to you when you call you can begin the correction methods.

Remember that once you correct your dog you must restore trust that same day of correction. This is done as described above, call them over and reward them in a friendly manner.

Never call them over and correct them! This will destroy the trust built between you and your dog.

If you see that they are being good reward them. If you correct them with a verbal cue and they respond you must also reward them.

Most owners are afraid to correct their dog, they believe that correction is cruel and not a good idea. If you rear a belligerent dog that is disobedient and a trouble maker that nobody likes and do not want it, it is your fault for not correcting them. Their fate is far worse than giving appropriate discipline to correct unwanted behaviour. Dogs that cannot be handled live a life of misery. Nobody wants them and they are often put to sleep to end their suffering.

Correcting a Bored Barker

These dogs luckily do not require much correction. The correction comes in correcting the owner in owning a dog. These dogs are bored day in and day out. They are not active enough during the day and have lots of built up energy. They will often run up-and-down along a fence and are quite fit. The first tip you can try is getting into the habit of spending time with your dog. They need you to help use up their unspent energy. You can try the following: 

• Teaching your dog to retrieve a ball, rope toy etc. A 20 minute play in the yard helps a tremendous amount for you and your dog. Not all dogs will retrieve, however most will chase balls. So if your dog is not a retriever you can make him chase balls by buying 4 balls and throwing them around the yard. Once he catches one throw the next.
• Going for a walk around the neighbourhood. This is excellent for your dog. Sometimes it is unpleasant as there are so many dogs in the area that walking your own one becomes a tedious job of wrestling them to leave all the other dogs. Or the cacophony of noise while you are walking is very unpleasant. Refer to Part 2 & Part 5 in particular of the Basic Dog Training Article Series for information on how to walk your dog correctly.
• Take your dog to a park or sports ground for a good run around. Take balls and toys and really get in there and play with your dog. They will greatly appreciate this.
• Teach your dog to swim if you have a pool. This will help in the warmer months. Swimming uses a lot of energy and will tire your dog.

The idea here is to first burn all your dogs' energy during the day. Once evening comes they would rather rest instead of barking the whole time. If this does not work you can go to a higher level of correction.

Here are appropriate correction techniques: 

• The first step is verbal correction. Walk outside in visual and hearing range of your dog. When they bark, say in a loud, clear tone "Name of Pet - Quiet." Remember that you must be calm and collective, not yelling and screaming at your dog. Take charge and show them you mean business. If they stop barking, call them over and reward them with praise saying that they are a good dog. A belly tickle helps a lot. Wait for 5 minutes and make sure your dog does not begin barking again.
• If the top approach does not work then you must make your correction more meaningful to distract the behaviour and get their attention. You will need ammunition to help you get the message through. Some of these dogs are so worked up that they need firmer convincing to abandon this behaviour. The best ammunition are light stones found in the garden, just smaller than a hand size. If you cannot throw accurately you may need to get sand clods instead. Keep a few of them handy at the door where you will be coming out of to correct them. Walk into visual and auditory range and give a clear, commanding tone verbal correction as above. If your dog ignores you, give the command once more then throw the stone or sand clod at the dog. Do not worry if you hit them, this stone is too small to hurt them seriously. Remember that you are trying to get a point across and you must sometimes bruise them a bit to get the message through in stubborn dogs. How hard you throw the stone will depend on their tolerance to correction. If the dog stops and looks at you, you have thrown it hard enough. If the dog runs away with its tail between its legs, you have over corrected a bit and next time you should throw a bit softer. The most important aspect is to regain trust right after this correction. You must crouch down and call your dog in a warm and loving tone as described above. Once you have regained trust it is time to see if this has worked.
• In most cases you will need two to three weeks of correction to stop the behaviour of boredom barking.

Remember to correct and reward, if you break trust you need to regain it for this to work.

Correcting a Habit Barker

These dogs are often stubborn and very independent. They will look at you defiantly and bark often with just verbal correction. You can use the boredom barking correction to begin with. Very often you will need to strengthen your correction to imbed the message that barking is an unwanted behaviour. You can try the following: 

• Water acts as a great deterrent. You will need to arm yourself with a bucket of water. If the dog barks, command them to stop with a verbal command. If they persist, repeat the verbal command and then throw them with water. You can walk right up to them with the water and throw it in their face.
• You can also try a high jet of water from a high powered water gun or hose connection. Remember to always give the clear, loud verbal command as described above, then if they continue give them the last verbal command and wet them.
• Once this is done, most dogs are very confused and scared of you. You must regain their trust and reward them when they come to you.
• Never chase your dog. Or else you will be in trouble by making this correction a game.

Water does the trick in almost all cases.

With all corrections, you must regain trust after you have corrected. Remember to reward your dog every time you see they are not barking, if they respond to a verbal command call them over for a reward.

Correcting Other Causes for Barking

Many other causes of barking have been mentioned, they only make up the remaining 25% of causes. Some can only be channelled and not cured such as instinctive and protective barking. If your dog has excellent hearing often the most helpful is locking them indoors at night to solve the problem. If your dog has hair growing in front of its face, trim it and this will often help.

If your dog has dementia, deafness or OCD then you will need more effort to correct this. These causes of barking are extremely difficult to cure. Luckily these make up the least amount of cases. You will need to work with a licensed veterinarian and a behaviourist to cure these.

Conclusion

Barking dogs are a real life concern for all dog owners. If you are an unlucky owner with a noisy dog it is your job to correct it before they become a neighbourhood disturbance. Often working with your dog will solve the issue. Remember that the first step is to gain a trust relationship with your dog before you begin correction. Most trouble dogs are detached from their owners, so securing a good bond will often solve most of the problem. Luckily most of the barking dogs fit into two categories, either a boredom barker or a habit barker and these require owner participation to correct in all cases.

Author: Dr Gareth Zeiler (BVSc), Owner of Petpatch.net - [https://petpatch.net] Original source, shared with permission.

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Why Do Dogs Try and Mate With Your Leg?

Many people have experienced the embarrassing moment when their host's male dog has suddenly clasped its front feet around their leg and started making vigorous pelvic thrusts.

Why do these dogs embark upon such an unpromising activity?

The answer is that dogs pass through a special socialization phase when they are puppies, during which time they establish their identity. This critical period lasts from the age of four to twelve weeks, and any species sharing this time with them in close and friendly proximity becomes their species. For all pet dogs there are always two species present during this crucial stage of growing up - dogs and humans. As a result they become 'mental hybrids', powerfully attached to both species. For the rest of their lives they remain at ease in both canine and human society. The members of their human family serve well enough as an adopted 'pack'. Humans share their food, share their den, go out patrolling the territory together, play together, indulge in a little social grooming, perform the required greeting ceremonies and generally act the role of dog companions with alacrity.

Dog society and human society make a good match. Only where sex is concerned does the relationship break down.

Fortunately, there are some powerful inborn responses involved in canine sexual attraction, which usually serve to keep dogs aimed in the right direction. Since humans do not possess the dog's particular erotic fragrance, they do not normally trigger the sexual responses of the male dogs that share their homes. As far as the dogs are concerned, people are simply 'members of their pack who are never in sexual condition'.

All should be well but, sadly for most male dogs, encounters with bitches in heat are abnormally rare events in their domesticated lives. A level of sexual frustration builds up where even the family cat begins to look appealing. At this point a randy dog will try to mount almost anything that will stay still long enough, including cats, other male dogs, cushions and human legs.

Human legs are attractive because they are easy to clasp. The choice of a leg rather than some more appropriate part of the human anatomy is due simply to the awkward, undoglike shape of human beings. They are too big and too tall, making the leg the only easily accessible region for a last-resort sexual advance.

The correct response to a leg-clasping dog is compassion rather than anger. It is we, after all, who have condemned such dogs to an abnormally celibate existence. A polite rejection of their advances is all that is needed, not the angry punishment that is sometimes meted out.

The comment about the dog's interest in the family cat was not intended to be facetious. Some sexually frustrated dogs do try to mate with cats, but this only happens when the animals concerned grew up together as puppies and kittens. A close relationship with young cats during the critical phase of puppy development simply adds felines to the category of 'my species' in the canine mind.

A puppy that has played with:
(a) other puppies in its litter,
(b) the family kitten, and
(c) its human owners, during the socialization phase of four to twelve weeks, will have a triple attachment that will last a lifetime.

There is another side of the coin to this attachment process. The absence of a species during the socialization period in the puppy's development will mean that it is automatically something to be avoided later on. This applies even to the puppy's own true species. If a tiny pup is taken away from its mother before its eyes and ears are open - say, when it is only a week old - and hand-reared in isolation, it will become massively attached to humans but will always be shy with other dogs in later life. It is therefore a great mistake to remove a puppy from its family too soon. If there is a disaster, with the mother dying and only one puppy surviving, for example, then it is important to try and have other puppies or dogs around the young one as it is being hand-reared, so that it becomes used to the company of its own kind during its critical growth period.

If a puppy is left in the company of its own canine family but kept completely away from humans until it is past the age of twelve weeks, it Will never become tame and friendly with people in later life. Puppies reared in a field on an experimental farm, where they had no close contact with people until the litter was fourteen weeks old, were effectively like wild animals.

The idea that the domestic dog is in some way a 'genetically tame' animal is therefore not true. The suggestion that wolves are more 'savage' and untameable than dogs is also incorrect. A wolf-cub taken at a young enough stage of development becomes a remarkably friendly companion, so much so that most people, seeing one being taken for a walk on a collar and lead, would imagine that it was just another large dog. Indeed, on one occasion a tame adult wolf was taken from England to the United States on the Queen Elizabeth, registered as an Alsatian, without causing any comment. It was given a daily walk around the deck and was cheerfully petted by passengers and crew, who would have been horrified had they known its true identity.

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Dog Parvo - The Deadliest Viral Disease of Dogs

The dog parvo virus is probably the most common viral illness of dogs at the moment. The virus is extremely small (the Latin word for small is "parvo") - just a few grams of stool can contain millions of virus particles. The dog parvo virus has been known and identifiable since the late 70's and can be transmitted by direct or indirect contact with vomit or diarrhea from an infected dog.

The Canine parvovirus (CPV), also referred to as "the dog parvo", attacks the intestinal tract, white blood cells, and in some rare cases the heart muscle. The common form of the dog parvo has a predilection for rapidly dividing cells (similar to cancer) such as the cells of intestinal lining and that is why it causes diarrhea and ulcerative enteritis. When the virus lashes out and attacks this type of cells, it makes dogs and puppies not being able to assimilate or absorb nutrients or liquids.

Symptoms of the dog parvo can take anywhere between 7 to 10 days before they are visible. In the early stages, symptoms that are likely to be noticed by the dog owner are a lack of energy and a loss of appetite. As a result, dogs infected with the parvo virus will soon show clear symptoms of dehydration and malnutrition. As the virus spreads, the dog parbo symptoms are characterized by high fever, severe diarrhea, quite often bloody, vomiting, lethargy and severe dehydration. If your dog, but especially your new puppy, begins exhibiting any of these symptoms, see a veterinarian right away. Because even though the dog parvo virus can also infect adult dogs, it is more often found in small puppies because of their low immune system. Parvovirus requires swift action to help an infected dog survive as when parvo is involved, every hour counts.

The severity of the disease depends upon the age of the dog, presence of maternal antibody, size of the virus dose and the breed of the infected dog. Though many dogs become highly ill due to this viral disease, breeds like Doberman Pinschers and Pit Bull Terriers may reveal clinical symptoms to a very severe degree.

According to conventional veterinarians, there is no known cure for the dog parvo. Conventional treatment is, therefore, mostly supportive and consists of maintaining the dog's body fluids, balancing electrolyte levels and maintaining body temperature. But even if a dog survives the initial bout of dog parvo, there is still a high risk of collapsing during the recovery period. You should get your dog immunized to protect them in case they come into contact with dogs that have the illness. Most veterinarians recommend that young puppies to be vaccinated every 3 to 4 weeks beginning when the pup is 6 weeks of age and continuing until it is 20 weeks old.

The dog parvo virus is most common in places where dogs congregate, such as parks, animal shelters or even at dog shows. Dogs may take in the virus from sniffing or consuming contaminated fecal matter, from cleansing himself, or from consuming food off the ground or flooring. That is why dogs that spend their time confined to a house or a yard and are not in contact with other dogs have much less chance of exposure to the canine parvo virus. You must also be aware of the fact that the dog parvo virus may be even brought home to your dog on shoes and even automobile tires. If you allow your dog to live outside, then remember to alter drinking water on a regular basis because there is a chance that the water can contain parvo virus (carried by birds on their feets or feathers or in their feces).

CPV is very resistant and can remain in feces-contaminated ground for five months or more if conditions are favorable.

Be aware of the fact that the dog parvo symptoms resemble other diseases (like poisoning or worms) and are often misdiagnosed. The only way to know if a dog has the Parvo virus is through a positive diagnostic test.

For more information, visit http://dog-parvo.blogspot.com - a website dedicated to inform pet owners about Dog Parvo. The website contains articles on symptoms, treatments and prevention.

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Dog House Training - 6 Sure-Fire Tips to Housetrain in One Week

With the right crate, constant supervision and patience, you can housebreak your puppy in a week. It's important to make sure someone is at home with him during this week. Puppies are creatures of habit, and keeping to a schedule is important. Enlist the entire family if possible.

Young puppies cannot physically control their bodily functions as well as a grown dog. It's important to remember that even after your housebreaking appears to be a success. Not many four-month-old puppies can go eight to 10 hours a day without having an accident. Allowing your puppy to not get a "potty break" for more than a few hours is nothing but poor dog owner training.

To effectively housetrain your dog you must have a crate, if you didn't purchase one when you brought your puppy home. The reason crate-training works is that a dog will avoid urinating and defecating in his den. If his crate is too big, then your puppy won't associate it with his nest. That's why it's important to partition part of a larger crate if you bought one to accommodate your puppy's full adult size. Your assignment, if you choose to accept it, is to teach your puppy that your entire home is his den.

Here are some housebreaking tips.

1. Feed your puppy in the morning and in the evening - do not leave food out for him all day. Dogs will normally need to relieve themselves within minutes of eating. After he eats, take the dog outside. When he relieves himself, praise him. Then put him in his crate with some chew toys.

2. The first and second day, take him out to do his business after every meal and every hour. The third day, increase the time to 90 minutes; the fourth day to two hours, the fifth day to two-and-a-half hours, the sixth day to three hours, and the seventh day to four hours. Praise him when he goes outside. Keep him outside for at least 10 minutes during each "potty break." Distract him if he wants to go in before the 10 minutes are up. If he doesn't relieve himself during the "potty break," put him back into his crate until the next break.

3. If you catch your dog in the act of urinating or defecating, say "No!" and take him outside. Keep your puppy, or grown dog, tethered to you while you are housebreaking him if possible. This allows you to see what he's up to and helps you bond.

4. If you find an "accident," don't correct your dog - only correct him if you catch him in the act. Clean it up with a pet deodorizer. It is important to use this product rather than household cleaners because your dog will smell his waste despite the household cleaner, and smelling his waste stimulates him to urinate and defecate - right where he isn't supposed to.

5. If you have to miss a scheduled "potty break," put your dog in a bathroom or small room that can be closed off from him until his housebreaking is complete. Put down newspaper or puppy pads so you can easily remove any waste and minimize the odor that your dog will be able to smell later.

6. Take puppies that are under 16 weeks old out when they wake up at night. A young puppy can't go all night without relieving himself. Keep both puppies and dogs being housebroken in their crates overnight.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

For More Information On Dog House Training.

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’ The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!

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