PRIVACY POLICY Of Unblock Site: VPN Shield Master

PRIVACY POLICY FOR Unblock Site: VPN Shield Master

This privacy policy governs your use of the software application Unblock Site: VPN Shield Master (“Application”) for mobile devices that was created by Kristin Scholz. The Application is a Antivirus software for Android devices. 

What information does the Application obtain and how is it used?

User Provided Information

The Application obtains the information you provide when you download and register the Application. Registration with us is optional. However, please keep in mind that you may not be able to use some of the features offered by the Application unless you register with us.

When you register with us and use the Application, you generally provide (a) your name, email address, age, user name, password and other registration information; (b) transaction-related information, such as when you make purchases, respond to any offers, or download or use applications from us; (c) information you provide us when you contact us for help; (d) credit card information for purchase and use of the Application, and; (e) information you enter into our system when using the Application, such as contact information and project management information.

We may also use the information you provided us to contact your from time to time to provide you with important information, required notices and marketing promotions.

Automatically Collected Information

In addition, the Application may collect certain information automatically, including, but not limited to, the type of mobile device you use, your mobile devices unique device ID, the IP address of your mobile device, your mobile operating system, the type of mobile Internet browsers you use, and information about the way you use the Application.

Does the Application collect precise real time location information of the device?

This Application does not collect precise information about the location of your mobile device.

Do third parties see and/or have access to information obtained by the Application?

Only aggregated, anonymized data is periodically transmitted to external services to help us improve the Application and our service. We will share your information with third parties only in the ways that are described in this privacy statement.

We may disclose User Provided and Automatically Collected Information: • as required by law, such as to comply with a subpoena, or similar legal process;

• when we believe in good faith that disclosure is necessary to protect our rights, protect your safety or the safety of others, investigate fraud, or respond to a government request;

• with our trusted services providers who work on our behalf, do not have an independent use of the information we disclose to them, and have agreed to adhere to the rules set forth in this privacy statement.

• if Kristin Scholz is involved in a merger, acquisition, or sale of all or a portion of its assets, you will be notified via email and/or a prominent notice on our Web site of any change in ownership or uses of this information, as well as any choices you may have regarding this information.

What are my opt-out rights?

You can stop all collection of information by the Application easily by uninstalling the Application. You may use the standard uninstall processes as may be available as part of your mobile device or via the mobile application marketplace or network. You can also request to opt-out via email, at mouadesummer2@gmail.com.

Data Retention Policy, Managing Your Information

We will retain User Provided data for as long as you use the Application and for a reasonable time thereafter. We will retain Automatically Collected information for up to 24 months and thereafter may store it in aggregate. If you’d like us to delete User Provided Data that you have provided via the Application, please contact us at mouadesummer2@gmail.comand we will respond in a reasonable time. Please note that some or all of the User Provided Data may be required in order for the Application to function properly.

Children

We do not use the Application to knowingly solicit data from or market to children under the age of 13. If a parent or guardian becomes aware that his or her child has provided us with information without their consent, he or she should contact us at mouadesummer2@gmail.com. We will delete such information from our files within a reasonable time.

Security

We are concerned about safeguarding the confidentiality of your information. We provide physical, electronic, and procedural safeguards to protect information we process and maintain. For example, we limit access to this information to authorized employees and contractors who need to know that information in order to operate, develop or improve our Application. Please be aware that, although we endeavor provide reasonable security for information we process and maintain, no security system can prevent all potential security breaches.

Changes

This Privacy Policy may be updated from time to time for any reason. We will notify you of any changes to our Privacy Policy by posting the new Privacy Policy here and informing you via email or text message. You are advised to consult this Privacy Policy regularly for any changes, as continued use is deemed approval of all changes. You can check the history of this policy by clicking here.

Your Consent

By using the Application, you are consenting to our processing of your information as set forth in this Privacy Policy now and as amended by us. “Processing,” means using cookies on a computer/hand held device or using or touching information in any way, including, but not limited to, collecting, storing, deleting, using, combining and disclosing information, all of which activities will take place in the United States. If you reside outside the United States your information will be transferred, processed and stored there under United States privacy standards.

Contact us

If you have any questions regarding privacy while using the Application, or have questions about our practices, please contact us via email at mouadesummer2@gmail.com.

Why Does My Cat Pee Everywhere?

Whether your cat is old or young, male or female, anxious or mellow, he or she can get the idea that peeing anywhere but the litterbox is a good thing. Many frustrated humans in the past and present have tried nearly everything to figure out why the cat does this - and, of course, to solve the problem.

Here are the first things that you should do when your cat insists on stinking up your house. You'll have to be patient while you work your way through this list, but soon your kitty will be back to doing his or her business in an appropriate place.

• Your cat needs a full health checkup. In many cases, cats pee right in front of you when they're sick. A urinary tract infection (UTI) is one of the most common health problems, which your vet can treat. Even if that's not what's wrong with your kitty, your vet can track down, and solve, the problem.
• Cats who are older or who have health problems (joint pains, for example), can't get in and out of the litterbox like they could when they were younger. Make the litterbox more accessible so that your kitty can get in and out.
• The litterbox itself might be a problem. If you have more than one cat, you might need to put out additional litterboxes. The type of litter and how much of it you use can be problems. You should also change the cat litter and thoroughly scrub the litterbox. The plastic tends to absorb urine smells, which can turn off housecats.
• Sometimes cats will act out by peeing all over your favorite things. This can be a sign that they're unhappy about something. Try giving your cat more (positive) attention. Extra playtime with his favorite toy can cure the behavioral issue. You can also ask your vet about a product that will help soothe your kitty: Feliway is one example.
• Tomcats often spray anything that they wish to mark as their own territory. Sterilization can improve this problem.
• Elderly kitties can suffer from feline dementia. They honestly don't realize that they're doing something wrong when they pee all over your clean laundry. Buy housebreaking pads - the disposable kind that people use with puppies - and put them down where your kitty pees the most often. This won't convince her to use the litterbox, but cleanup will be much easier compared to what you're doing now.

You should do a few things when your kitty decides to mark something in your house.

• Never hit the cat or rub her nose in the mess. Cats aren't like human children: they don't understand that what they do is wrong. You can deter behavior as the cat is doing it, but trying to teach the cat after the fact doesn't work very well. Instead of scolding kitty afterward, catch her in the act and spritz her with tap water from a spray bottle.
• Completely clean the marked territory. Even if you can't smell the cat pee, the cat will. That's her sign to continue peeing there. Visit the pet store for a product that removes all of the pet odors.
• Give your cat plenty of positive attention. Despite the stereotypes that surround felines, cats do bond with their humans. They want our attention and will go to great lengths to get it from us.

Don't worry: you'll track down and solve the problem soon enough. In the meantime, be as patient as possible. Your solution will come and you can resume the carefree relationship

Copyright © 2008, Ian White housesitting.com

Author Ian White is founder of housecarers Housesitting directory

Cats are happier in their own environment. Pet friendly alternative to catteries or cat boarding.

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How to Train Cats to Use a Cat Door Or Ring a Bell to Be Let Inside

If you have an outdoor cat you may hope to learn how to train cats to use a cat door or how to ring a bell so that you realize they are ready to come in.

I realize that there are times when I let my cats outside that I may get busy and forget to check on them so I found a way for them to let me know that they are at the door all set to come inside. I live in an area that is too cold for a cat door (I have one going to the basement where the cat litter boxed are located) so I chose to find a way for them to signal me to open the door, something we wanted because of the extreme cold we at times go through here.

Here is a very simple way for training your cats to let you know when they want to be let inside.

Simply take a small bell, one that is loud enough for you to hear, and swing it from a string right outside the door. Make certain to show this to your cat numerous times and if you need to you can even add some catnip to the bell to appeal to your cats.

You can obtain a bell at any craft store for practically nothing. Using several small bells might even do better for you or your cat. Tie the bell or bells to a cord that hangs down low enough for your cat to reach easily and then also attach a catnip toy or use catnip spray to attract your cat.

When ever the cat rings the bell to come in, you will want to give them a cat treat to let them know that they have done something worth rewarding. If your cat doesn't take to the bell straight away, you may have to keep showing it to them to get them interested and sooner or later they will learn that you will come to the door to let them in when they ring the bell.

In the beginning, you might need to keep showing them the bell every time they go out or come in so that they begin to connect the bell with the door being opened for them. You might even want to begin with a bell inside the house for when they want to go outside and this will help them to learn more quickly that ringing the bell means that the door will be opened.

While I realize there will be times that you may not open the door just because you are not there or for any number of reasons, your cat will still start to connect the bell with the door being opened.

If you live someplace where you can put in a cat door, this is one more choice you can use to let your cat go in and out when ever they want to. This will also depend on what other animals you may have in the home. One more reason I choose not to have a cat door that leads outside, is I have a cat that can go outside but she is edgy and I have be there to baby sit when she goes out so that she doesn't get scared and take off.

Although you can purchase a cat door at any pet store, you can also just make one yourself if you are good at creating stuff. We put the cat door to our basement in ourselves, simply by cutting a small hole at the bottom of the door and putting a piece of plastic across it that they could easily walk through.

If you wish to put in a cat door that goes outside, make sure you know what size you need to have for you cat to be able to fit comfortably through the opening. While a cat that is used to going outside all the time will most likely figure out quickly how to make use of the cat door, you may also need to know how to train cats to use this new door as well.

This ought to be a fairly straightforward process. One of the ways you can train your cat to use this door is to keep it open and use a toy to tempt your cat to go through from one side to the other. It should only take a couple of times of doing this before your cat is aware that they can go in and out as they please.

Once they have gone in and out a couple of times you will want to show them how to use the door by themselves when it is closed and you can use the same process to do this. You may perhaps choose to use food to attract your cat to walk through the door and help them to push through the first few times but a lot of cats will take to this process pretty quickly if they really want to be able to get outside.

With persistence and affection you can learn how to train cats to do just about everything.

Understanding your cat is one of the first steps in learning how to train cats [http://howtotraincats.net]. If you plan on getting a cat or a kitten it is best to know how to train a kitten [http://howtotraincats.net] from the very start

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Cat Labor Signs - 7 Ways To Tell That Your Cat is About to Give Birth

So your cat has been pregnant for awhile now and been getting rounder and rounder. Suddenly, her whole demeanour changes and you're standing there, wondering if this is really it -- is your cat in labour?

Are her kittens coming?

How can you tell?

Just what are the signs of labour you should be looking out for?

Cat lovers the world over do their very best to make sure that their beloved pets receive the best care possible.

But when our feline friends become ill -- or in this case, are due to give birth to kittens -- we begin to feel very anxious and out of control as we realise that we simply don't know enough about the situation.

After all, we can't all be vets! You need to know what to look out for and you need to know fast.

Your cat is due to go into labour around the 64th day of her pregnancy, although it is very unlikely that you will be able to be that accurate in your calculations. Instead, you will have to rely on your ability to read the signs of the stages of pregnancy and of her impending labour.

Firstly, you are likely to have noticed that your cat's appetite will have almost doubled in the past few weeks and you will be able to see her kittens moving around in her abdomen quite clearly.

Also, she will have been displaying nesting behaviour -- looking for a safe, warm and quiet place in which to give birth. Hopefully, you will have already provided a suitable nesting box for her to use, otherwise you may find that she has chosen to give birth in the middle of your bed!

Then, as your cat nears the start of her labour, her appetite will reduce dramatically. It may even disappear completely.

A further sign of your cat's labour is that she may become particularly clingy and want to be around you constantly, seeking your affection.

As she gets closer to the time that her labour begins in earnest, you may find that your cat starts pacing about, appearing nervous or particularly excitable.

Another very distinct sign that your cat is very close to going into labour is that she will begin to 'call' to you. Even if you have never been present when a cat is giving birth, you won't be able to mistake this particular sound!

As the time approaches, you will see your cat repeatedly licking her bottom as she reacts to changing sensations in her body as it prepares for the birth of her kittens.

And finally, when your soon--to--be mother cat starts to feel the first twinges of her labour, she will appear to be uneasy and will repeatedly go in and out of her nesting box, 'treading' on the nesting material that you have already provided.

When you see this last behaviour, you can be quite sure that your lovely cat is entering the first stage of the birth process -- your cat's labour has begun.

In conclusion then, when you find yourself faced with a heavily pregnant cat and are wondering just when things will start to get moving, the foregoing, seven signs will give you a good guide to follow.

But do yourself a favour, the hard work doesn't stop there -- for you or your cat. Learn just what you need to know to help her through the actual birth process and how you can best care for your cute, newborn kittens by visiting the link in the box below.

© Jane Tompsett 2007

Author's Biography.

Jane Tompsett is a confirmed cat--lover and has more than forty years' experience in caring for stray and abandoned cats. She has trained to run a cat boarding establishment and has been associated with the Feline Advisory Bureau for almost twenty years now. Her lifelong interest in feline welfare has given her a broad range of expertise on all aspects of cat care and behavior.

To discover how to give the best home care for your cat through pregnancy, birth, nursing & weaning, including how to care for orphaned and abandoned kittens, visit the link below.

http://www.howtodeliverkittens.com

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Cat Eye Disorders

EYE TUMORS

Seventy-five percent of eye tumors in the cat are malignant, aggressive forms of cancer (in dogs the ratio is reversed, 75 percent of tumors are benign and do not spread or become life-threatening). An Iris melanoma is the most common type of tumor affecting cat's eyes. Older cats may develop a visible brown or black spot on the iris of their eye. The Iris is the colored part of the eye. The spots may be single or multiple and are pigmented cells called Melanocytes that have overgrown. Examination involves the use of a slit-lamp biomicroscope, which determines whether or not the tumor is cancerous. If the pigmented area on the iris is flat, the lesion is referred to as an Ins Melanosis. This is considered to be pre-cancerous and is rechecked at six-month intervals.

IRIS MELANOMA / GLAUCOMA

Iris melanoma is also called Melanosis and/or Melanocytoma. Iris melanoma is the term used if the pigmented area on the iris is raised. This is a cancerous lesion. Treatment involves using a diode laser to destroy the cancer cells. Without treatment, Iris melanoma is generally result in Glaucoma. Glaucoma occurs because the cancer cells spread and obstruct the drainage angle of the eye, which is where the fluid within the eye normally drains. Since fluid can not drain from the eye, it builds up within the eye which increases pressure within the eye and causes Glaucoma. In dogs, Glaucoma rapidly results in blindness due to irreversible damage to the retina.

The only sign of Glaucoma in cats may be a slight difference in the size of the pupils which are the dark central area of the eye. Surgical removal of the eye, which is called Enucleation, is often necessary in advanced cases of Ins Melanoma. This alleviates the pain of Glaucoma and removes the cancerous mass.

RETINAL DEGENERATION

Retinal Degeneration is an inherited condition in Abyssinian cats. It occurs between four to six years of age and results in blindness. A dietary deficiency of the amino acid Taurine can also occur in cats fed primarily dog food which results in Nutritional Retinal Degeneration. This condition was first described in 1975 and was called Feline Central Retinal Degeneration (FCRD). Commercial cat foods are now fortified with Taurine to prevent this problem.

Copyright 2007 Dr. Carol Osborne

Dr. Carol Osborne is the inventor of PAAWS, the pet anti-aging wellness system seen on TV. VitaLife is Dr. Carol's newest line of pet vitamin supplements and is the best supplement available for arthritis and anti-aging in dogs and cats. PAAWS and VitaLife are revolutionary breakthroughs, with all natural nutrients that virtually peel away the years, seeming to reverse the aging process normally experienced by pets.

Get FREE pet advice from Dr. Carol at http://CarolonPets.com/

Visit Dr. Carol's blog at http://CarolonPets.com/blog/

Buy PAAWS and VitaLife dog and cat vitamin supplements and other pet health products at http://DrCarol.com/

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Eight Foods Your Cat Should Never, Ever Eat

Most of us know that there are some human foods our pets shouldn't eat. Keeping our cats away from alcohol, for example, is a no-brainer. But did you know that onion powder can cause anemia in cats and dogs? Because of their different metabolisms, many common foods that are safe for human consumption are not safe for your cat. Reactions can range from upset stomachs to severe illness or death.

To help keep your kitty safe you need to know which foods to avoid. The following list spotlights eight common foods your cat should never eat:

Baby Food

It's hard to imagine that a food that's safe enough for a baby's tender tummy would hurt our fur-kids. But what makes baby food so dangerous for cats is that it might contain onion powder (see below) which could lead to anemia. Also, baby food doesn't meet your cat's nutritional needs, and could result in malnutrition if she eats too much of it.

Chocolate

Most people know that chocolate is bad for dogs, but many of us don't realize that it's harmful for cats as well. Chocolate contains theobromine, a chemical compound that humans can eat safely. But cats and dogs metabolize theobromine more slowly; as a result, even small amounts of the compound can lead to theobromine poisoning, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, excitability, panting, abnormal heart rate, tremors, seizures - and even death. Theobromine poisoning is treatable if caught early enough. But to be safe, keep chocolate away from your kitty.

Coffee and Tea

Caffeine is toxic to both cats and dogs, and there's no antidote. According to ProVet Healthcare, it only takes about 8 teaspoons of coffee to potentially fatally poison a cat that weighs 3 kilograms (that's about 6.6 lbs). Signs of caffeine poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, panting, hyperactivity, restlessness, muscle tremors, increased or decreased heart rate, irregular heart rhythm, increased body temperature. But most scary of all: caffeine poisoning can lead to seizures, coma and death.

Grapes and Raisins

Scientists aren't sure exactly just what substance is in grapes and raisins that make them so toxic for our pets, but according to the ASPCA Poison Control Center, dogs who've eaten large amounts of grapes and raisins have suffered renal (kidney) failure. Although it's unclear what effect grapes have on cats, to be on the safe side the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center "advises not giving grapes or raisins to any pets in any amount."

Onions and Garlic

Raw, powdered and uncooked onions and garlic are especially harmful to cats because they damage red blood cells, which could cause anemia. Not only does anemia make your kitty pale and lethargic, it can be a life threatening illness.

Spinach

The jury's still out on whether or not spinach is bad for cats, but scientists do know that spinach leaves contain a small amount of calcium oxalates (a chemical compound that makes needle-shaped crystals), which is a major component in kidney stones. If your cat eats enough spinach, it could lead to crystals in her urine. Cats with a history of urinary problems such as infections, crystaluria and kidney disease, should definitely avoid eating spinach.

Unripe Tomato

Everyone knows that tomatoes are good for humans. But did you know that they can be toxic to cats? Tomatoes are a member of the deadly nightshade plant family and contain a poisonous alkaloid called, solanine. Solanine is toxic to humans too. But you have to eat it in large amounts for it to hurt you. That's why you shouldn't eat green potatoes - a potato that has gone green has higher levels of solanine inside it. And it can make you sick, causing a bevy of symptoms that range from nausea, diarrhea and vomiting to hallucinations, paralysis and in the worst cases, death. Unlike humans, however, only a small amount of solanine can hurt your cat. According to FelineFuture.com, "traces of Solanin, like those found in just a 100g of cherry tomatoes, can be fatal!"

Yeast Dough

Raw or uncooked yeast dough should never be fed to your cat. What makes it so dangerous? Yeast (the single-celled fungi that causes bread to rise) isn't toxic per se, but if your cat eats the raw dough, it might continue to rise inside your kitty's stomach. And you can imagine what that could lead to: painful bloating, gas, and in the worst-case-scenario, possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Remember, the information in this article is for informative purposes only. If you suspect your cat has eaten something that is harmful, or needs medical attention, contact your veterinarian immediately! For more information about other harmful foods or toxins found in your home, check out these great references: ASPCA Animal Control Archives and PetEducation.com.

K.L. Bonfiglio is a freelance writer and owner of CuteCatGifts.com, a website dedicated to connecting cat lovers with cute cat gifts. Looking for more information about cats? Visit our blog, which features informative cat articles, product spotlights, cat videos, funny cat photos and more.

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Beware! Before You Adopt From A Dog Rescue, You Must Know The Correct Answers For The Application?

If you are considering adopting a dog from an animal shelter or a dog rescue group, that is wonderful! Every dog adopted from a shelter or rescue group helps to eliminate despicable puppy mills and, more importantly, saves a dog's life. Unfortunately, some dog rescue groups make adopting a dog almost as difficult as adopting a child. The first hurdle you must clear is the initial adoption application. An "incorrect" answer here will send you home in shock and empty-handed. For this reason, it is important that you read this application BEFORE you fall in love with a specific dog.

Most rescue groups--especially puppy mill dog rescues and breed-specific rescues--require that you submit an adoption application and have it approved before they will even talk to you or allow you to see their dogs in person. You will be able to look at pictures of available dogs on the rescue website; but until they have approved your application, that is as far as you can go. Fortunately, not all rescues are so terribly demanding; and by comparison, shelters are downright welcoming!

I cannot overstate the importance of this initial application! Please understand that I am an honest person. I do not lie and would never tell anyone to lie on an application. Having said that, there are certain answers that, if stated on an application, will immediately disqualify you. When you read the application, you will need to determine if any of these apply to you. Then you will need to decide how you want to handle the situation. You can try to avoid having to admit the truth, or you will need to look for a less demanding rescue group.

For the questions below, I will give you the "correct" answer, by which I mean the answer the rescue wants to read or hear from you. I will also give you answers that will disqualify you. If there is some other acceptable answer, I will state that as well. For a few questions, I will just say NOTB--None Of Their Business--or I will just tell you to go elsewhere.

Typical "Problematic" Questions:

1. How much money do you make? This is one of those NOTB questions. Supposedly, they want to make sure you can afford to adopt a dog, but I consider the only answer to be given here is "I make enough."

(Just FYI -- some rescues are actually discriminatory; and questions dealing with salary, type of home, where you live, etc. are used to weed out certain people.)

2. How much time during the day will your dog be alone?

Disqualify: All day or I work all day.

Correct: NONE. Someone is always home.

Acceptable: Not much time. I go home at lunch and my neighbor will let the dog out two or three times a day.

3. How much time will your dog have to spend outside alone?

Disqualify: All day.

Correct: None.

There is no other acceptable answer.

4. Is your yard fenced with a 5' (or 6') wooden fence?

Disqualify: No fence; electric fence; 4' chain link fence. (I have not found any rescue that will accept an electric fence.)

Correct: Yes, I have a 5' (or 6') wooden fence.

Acceptable: This will depend on the dog. For an older small dog, a shorter fence might be acceptable.

5. Do you have children? What are the ages?

Disqualify: Baby or children under 6.

Correct: No children, or all are 10 or older.

Acceptable: Ages between 4 and 10 will depend on the dog.

6. What pets have you owned and, if you don't still have them, state why not.

The second part of this question is NOTB! They are trying to find out if you have put any pets down or have returned any.

7. Where will the dog sleep?

Disqualify: Outdoors.

Correct: In the house, with us, in a crate.

8. Is everyone in the family enthusiastic about getting a new dog?

Disqualify: Any answer that isn't YES.

Correct: YES.

9. Have you ever returned or given up a pet? This might be worded: Is there any acceptable reason to return a pet?

Disqualify: Yes.

Correct: Never. I would never do that.

Acceptable: This can be tricky. If an adopted animal and your current pets could not work things out, you might still be approved.

10. Have you had a pet put down?

Disqualify: Yes. Most rescues do not believe there is any acceptable reason to put down a dog. Aggression is never an acceptable reason. Severe injury or illness might be considered acceptable, but that depends on the rescue. Some believe in the "as long as they can breathe" philosophy for keeping an animal alive.

Final thoughts:

Before you get attached to a dog, read both the adoption application AND the adoption contract. If you realize that you will not get approved (small children, live in apartment, yard not fenced, etc.) or you cannot accept some of the contract requirements, then do not bother to look at pictures of their animals. Instead, look for a different rescue or go to your local shelter or Humane Society.

Puppy mill rescue groups and breed rescues tend to have an inherent distrust of human beings. Thus, their requirements are very strict. Rescues that make a concerted effort to save dogs from euthanasia at shelters are more people friendly and understand that their first goal needs to be getting these animals into loving homes.

Be patient and check websites frequently. Visit your local shelter frequently. Your perfect dog will find you!

Shirley Slick, "The Slick Tips Lady," is a retired high school math teacher and a life-long animal lover. In addition to her goals about mathematics education, she is equally concerned about puppy-mills, the dog rescue industry, and designer dogs. For more information about these topics, or tips about donating to rescues, visit her website at http://slicktipsaboutdogrescues.com/

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